Basic straight skirt – pattern with darts
Sewing any skirt begins with the construction of the basic pattern. We recommend to draw a basic skirt on graph paper. In order to obtain a perfect result, measurements need to be taken оn a person, dressed with underwear. Basic straight skirt pattern – in this tutorial.
Sketch of the skirt is on the pic. 1. Straight skirt has details: front and back darts, invisible zip in the center back seam, waistband.
Basic straight skirt
Measurements needed for a basic straight skirt (size 46) (values in inches are given in parentheses):
- Waist circ. (WC) – 72 cm (28 3/8″)
- Hip circ. (HC) – 98 cm (38 5/8″)
- Hip depth (HD) – 20 cm (7 7/8″)
- Skirt length (SL) – 60 cm (23 5/8″).
Pic. 2. Measurements for basic straight skirt
How to draw a skirt pattern
Draw a rectangle АА1НН1:
- АА1 = HH1 = ½ Нip circ + 1 cm (3/8″) = 98/2 + 1 cm (3/8″) = 49 cm (19 1/4″) + 1 cm (3/8″) = 50 cm (19 5/8″).
- AH = A1H1 = 60 cm (23 5/8″) (Skirt Length).
- AA2 = A2A1 = ½ AA1 = 50/2 = 25 cm (9 7/8″). From the point A2 square down to join HH1 – point H2.
- AB = 20 cm (7 7/8″) (Hip length measurement). From point B square wright to join A1H1 – point B2.
Pic. 3. Basic straight skirt
Darts calculation: ½ Hip circ. – ½ Waist circ. = 49 cm (19 1/4″) – 36 cm (14 1/8″) = 13 cm (5 1/8″).
- Side seam dart calculation: (½ Hip circ. – ½ Waist circ.) /2 = (49 cm (19 1/4″) – 36 cm (14 1/8″))/2 = 13 cm (5 1/8″) /2 = 6,5 cm (2 9/16″).
- Back dart calculation: (13 cm (5 1/8″) – 6,5 cm (2 9/16″)) * 0,6 = 3,9 cm (1 9/16″) ≈ 4 cm (1 9/16″).
- Front dart calculation: (13 cm (5 1/8″) – 6,5 cm (2 9/16″)) * 0,4 = 2,6 cm (1″) ≈ 2,5 cm (1″).
A2C = 1 cm (3/8″) (square up). Side seam: C1C2 = 6,5 cm (2 9/16″) (from point C move 3,25 cm (1 1/4″) each side). Join points C1 and C2 to point B2, using a curve.
To contents ▴How to draw a Back dart
Point M = ½ BB2. Square up to join AA2 – point M1. From point M1 move 2 cm (3/4″) each side: M1M2 = M1M3 = 2 cm (3/4″). Back dart length: M1M4 = 13 cm (5 1/8″).
Join points M2 and M3 to point M4, using a curve. Join point M3-C1 using a curve.
How to draw a Front dart
From point C2 move right 8 cm (3 1/8″): C2K = 8 cm (3 1/8″) (not a fix measurement, may be increase). Square down KK1. From point K move 1,25 cm (1/2″) each side: KK2 = KK3 = 1,25 cm (1/2″). Front dart length: KK4 = 10 cm (4″). K4K5 – move left 0,5 cm (1/4″). Join points K2 – K3 – K5, using a curve. Waist line: join point K2-C2 using a curve.
Back skirt pattern with 4 darts
A back with 4 darts is used in the case of a small waist (if Hip circ. minus Waist circ > 14 cm (5 1/2″)). Back pattern is on pic. 2. Front cut out unchanged (see pic. 3).
Pic. 4. Back skirt pattern with 4 darts
Pencil-skirt modeling
The pencil-skirt is a very popular and has a fit silhouette. The principle of a basic pattern transforming is shown in pic. 5.
Pic. 5. Pencil-skirt modeling
There are more patterns and ideas for creativity on the site of the Anastacia Korfiati Sewing School! Subscribe free!
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