Basic straight skirt – pattern with darts
Sewing any skirt begins with the construction of the basic pattern. We recommend to draw a basic skirt on graph paper. In order to obtain a perfect result, measurements need to be taken оn a person, dressed with underwear. Basic straight skirt pattern – in this tutorial.
Sketch of the skirt is on the pic. 1. Straight skirt has details: front and back darts, invisible zip in the center back seam, waistband.
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Basic straight skirt
Measurements needed for a basic straight skirt (size 46):
- Waist circ. (WC)- 72 cm
- Hip circ. (HC)- 98 cm
- Hip depth (HD) – 20 cm
- Skirt length (SL) – 60 cm.
How to draw a skirt pattern
Draw a rectangle АА1НН1:
- АА1 = HH1 = ½ Нip circ + 1 cm = 98/2 + 1 cm = 49 cm + 1 cm = 50 cm.
- AH = A1H1 = 60 cm (Skirt Length).
- AA2 = A2A1 = ½ AA1 = 50/2 = 25 cm. From the point A2 square down to join HH1 – point H2.
- AB = 20 cm (Hip length measurement). From point B square wright to join A1H1 – point B2.
Darts calculation: ½ Hip circ. – ½ Waist circ. = 49 cm – 36 cm = 13 cm.
- Side seam dart calculation: (½ Hip circ. – ½ Waist circ.) /2 = (49 cm – 36 cm)/2 = 13 cm /2 = 6,5 cm.
- Back dart calculation: (13 cm – 6,5 cm) * 0,6 = 3,9 cm ≈ 4 cm.
- Front dart calculation: (13 cm – 6,5 cm) * 0,4 = 2,6 cm ≈ 2,5 cm.
A2C = 1 cm (square up). Side seam: C1C2 = 6,5 cm (from point C move 3,25 cm each side). Join points C1 and C2 to point B2, using a curve.To contents ▴
How to draw a Back dart
Point M = ½ BB2. Square up to join AA2 – point M1. From point M1 move 2 cm each side: M1M2 = M1M3 = 2 cm. Back dart length: M1M4 = 13 cm.
Join points M2 and M3 to point M4, using a curve. Join point M3-C1 using a curve.
How to draw a Front dart
From point C2 move right 8 cm: C2K = 8 cm (not a fix measurement, may be increase). Square down KK1. From point K move 1,25 cm each side: KK2 = KK3 = 1,25 cm. Front dart length: KK4 = 10 cm. K4K5 – move left 0,5 cm. Join points K2 – K3 – K5, using a curve. Waist line: join point K2-C2 using a curve.
Back skirt pattern with 4 darts
A back with 4 darts is used in the case of a small waist (if Hip circ. minus Waist circ > 14 cm). Back pattern is on pic. 2. Front cut out unchanged (see pic. 3).To contents ▴
The pencil-skirt is a very popular and has a fit silhouette. The principle of a basic pattern transforming is shown in pic. 5.
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