Basic dress with darts

Basic dress with darts from size 40 to size 56

Basic dress with darts is a perfect pattern for creating garment of various styles – not only dresses, but also blouses, tops, summer jackets and so on.
Do it yourself! We will reveal all the secrets of drawing an accurate basic dress with darts for 40-56 (!) sizes. The exact result and wonderful mood are guaranteed!

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Measurements for Basic dress with darts

Measurements, needs for Basic dress with darts (size 46 measurements is used for the drawing):

1. Bust circ. 92 cm
2. Waist circ. 72 cm
3. Hip circ. 98 cm
4. Armhole length 20 cm
5. Chest widht1 38 cm
6. Chest widht2 31 cm
7. h measurement 9,5 cm
8. Breast distance 20,5 cm
9. Bust Height 28 cm
10. Hip height 20 cm
11. Back waist length 42,5 cm
12. Back shoulder height 42 cm
13. Front waist length 46 cm
14. Front shoulder height 45,5 cm
15. Neck circ. 37 cm
16. Shoulder length 12 cm
17. Bicep circ. 29 cm
18. Dress length 100 cm.

Read more: How to take body measurements

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How to draw the Basic dress with darts

Use a sheet of paper sizes ½ Bust circ. + 5 cm width (92/2 + 5 cm = 51 cm) and about 115 cm length. Start at the left side of the sheet. Step down 10 cm from the top edge of the sheet and 1 cm to the right and put point A.

Draw rectangle ABHH1:
AB = 1/2 Bust circ. + 1,5 cm (the ease allowance for 40-48 sizes) = 47,5 cm. The ease allowance for 50-57 sizes + 3 cm.

It’s important! The ease allowance 1,5 cm may vary: it can be increased or decreased according to the size and according to the garment styleline.

AH = 100 cm (Dress length). Read more How much ease should a garment have

• AC = 20 cm + 0,5 cm (Armhole length + 0,5 cm Ease allowance).
• AT = 42,5 cm (Back Waist Length).
• TD = 20 cm (Hip depth).

From points A, C, T, D, H draw horizontal lines to the right. Mark points C1, T1, D1:

1. CC1 – Armhole line
2. TT1 – Waist line
3. DD1 – Hip line
4. HH1 – Hem line.

AB1 = CC2 = (1/8 Bust circ. + 5,5 см) + 0–0,5 cm (Ease allowance) = 92 / 8 + 5,5 + 0 = 17 cm. Connect points B1 – C1.
C2C3 = (0,33 х Bicep circ. + 0,5 cm) + 0,5-1 cm ( Ease allowance from Table. 1).
C2C4 = ½ of C2C3. C4H2 = perpendicular to HH1. Mark the point T2 on the Waist line, D2 – on the Hip line, H2 – on the Hem line.
T1B1 = 46 cm (Front Waist Length). Draw horizontal line to the left.
B1B2 = C1С3. Connect points B2 – C3 with a straight line.

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Back pattern

Back Neck line. AA1 = 1/6 Neck circ. + 0,5 cm.
A1A2 = 2,5 cm. Connect points A-A2 with a curve line as shown on diagram.
Shoulder line. From point T draw an arc with a radius R = 42 cm (Back shoulder height measurement).
Draw the shoulder line A2S = 12 cm + 1 cm (Ease allowance) so that the point S lies on the arc.

B1M = ½ of B1C2. Draw the back armhole with a curve line, connecting points S – M – C4 as shown on diagram.

Front pattern

Front Neck line. Radius R1 = B1B3 = B1B4 = 1/6 Neck circ. + 0,5 cm. B3 is starting point of shoulder length.
B3B5 = 4 cm.
B5S1 = 1,5 cm. B3S1 is a shoulder length segment before the dart.
C5C6 = 10, 25 cm (1/2 Breast distance). S1C6 = 28 cm (Bust Height). C6 is the Breast point.

From point C6 draw an arc with a radius C6G = 9,5 cm (h measurement).
GG1 = 3,5 cm ((Chest width 1 minus Chest width 2)/2). Draw the straight line from the point C6 threw the point G1.
C6S2 = C6S1.
Shoulder line. From point T1 draw an arc with a radius R2 = 45,5 cm (Front shoulder height measurement).
Draw the segment of shoulder line S2S3 = 12 cm minus B2S1 (a shoulder length segment before the dart).
C3M1 = 6 cm (auxiliary point). Draw the front, armhole connecting points S3 – M1 – C4 with a curve line as shown on diagram.

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Back darts

TT3 = 1-1,5 cm. Center Back line: A-C-T3-D-H.
T3T4 = T2T3 minus 1,5 cm + 3 cm (dart).
CK = ½ CC4. KK1 = perpendicular to Hip line.
KK2 = 3 cm. K1K3 = 2 cm. T5T6 = T5T7 = 1,5 cm. Draw the back waist dart as shown on diagram.

Front darts

T1T8 = T1T2 minus 1,5 cm + 3 cm (dart).
C6K5 = perpendicular to Hip line.
C6K6 = 4,5 cm. T9T10 = T9T11 = 1,5 cm. Draw the front waist dart as shown on diagram.

Side seams

½ Hip circ. = 49 cm.
Calculate the increase for the hips: D2D3 = D2D4 = H2H3 = H2H4 = (½ Hip circ. + 1 cm (Ease allowance) minus DD1)/2 = (49 + 1 – 47,5 cm)/2 = 1,25 cm.
Draw the Back side seam: C4-T4-D3 join points with a curve line and points D3-H3 with a straight line.
Draw the Front side seam C4-T8-D4 join points with a curve line and points D4-H4 with a straight line.

How to cut out dress with darts

Back and front blocks copy separate and cut with 1,5 cm seams allowances and 4 cm for hem allowance. You can use this pattern for sewing dresses, tops, t-shirts and other garment.

It’s important! The finished pattern must be checked. Cut Back block and Front block from unbleached calico and sew a maquette of the dress.

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