Pattern of women’s trousers from jersey
Jersey trousers are one of the most comfortable models for sports and off-times. These trousers allow you to actively move, and at the same time perfectly retain their original shape. From this basic pattern, you can sew straight trousers with an elastic waistband, or model any other desired model of trousers.
What measurements do you need to pattern trousers?
You need to take the measurements for drawing a basic trousers. The pattern was made according to the standards measurements of 46th size:
- Waist circ. 72cm
- Hips circ. 98cm
- Hip depth 20 cm
- Crotch length 26 cm
- Knee length 56 cm
- Cuff circ. 42 cm
- Trousers length 104,5 cm.
Drafting the patterns
Move down 5 cm from the left corner of the paper and move right about 10 cm. This is point A.
From point A:
- AH = 104,5 cm – Trousers length according to the measure.
- AB = 20 cm – Hip depth according to the measure.
- AC = 26 cm – Crotch length.
- AK = 56 cm – Knee length according to the measure.
Draw from points B, C, K and H horizontal auxiliary lines of arbitrary length to the right.
From point A, along the horizontal line, set aside the segment AA1 = 1/4 Hip circumference minus 1 cm = 98 / 4 – 1 cm = 23,5 cm.
From point A1 draw down the perpendicular to horizontal line from point C. At the intersection you get points B1, C1.
- C1C2 = 1/20 Hip circ. + 0.5 cm = 98/10 + 0,5 = 5,4 cm.
- C1C3 = 1/2 C1C2. Connect points C2 and C3 with an auxiliary dotted line.
- A1A3 = 1 cm (for all sizes). Set aside 0,5 cm from point B1 to the right. Draw an auxiliary dotted line from point A3 through point 0,5 to the dotted line C2C3.
Draw a curve line C2 – 0,5 and straight line, connecting points 0,5 – A2.
The center line. CL=C2L. Draw an center line through the point L – point A2 is obtained at the intersection with the waist line, point H1 is obtained with the hem line.
Waistline. A3A4 = ¼ Waist circumference + 1 cm = 72/4 + 1 = 19 cm. Set aside A4A5 = 0,5 cm up and draw the waist line A3A5 as shown on diagram.
H1H2 = H1H3 = ¼ Cuff circ. to the measure minus 1 cm = 42/4 – 1 = 9,5 cm.
Side seam line. Connect points B and H2 with an auxiliary dotted straight line. Point K1 was obtained at the intersection with the knee line. From point K1 set aside K1K2 = 1 cm to the right and draw a line of the side seam, connecting the points B-K2-H2 as shown on diagram.
Super tip! To make it convenient to process the hem of the trousers, draw the lower section of the seams at a right angle to the bottom line.
Inseam line. Connect points C2 and H3 with a straight line. Point K3 was obtained at the intersection with the knee line. K3K4 = 1 cm. Draw the inseam line, connecting the points C2-K4-H3 with a smooth line.To contents ▴
The construction of the back pattern is based on the front pattern.
- C1C4 = 1,5 cm to the left (for all sizes).
- A1D = DA2. Connect the points C4 and D with a straight line and draw it up DT = 2 cm. Point B2 is obtained at the intersection with segment BB1.
- C4C5 = 1/10 Hip circumference by measure + 0,5 cm = 98/10 + 0,5 = 10,3 cm. From point C5 move down 0,5 cm vertically — you get point C6.
- B2B3 = ¼ Hip circumference by measure + 1 cm (for all sizes) = 98/4 + 1 = 25,5 cm.
The waist line. From point A5, draw a short auxiliary horizontal line to the left. Draw the waist line TT1 = ¼ Waist circumference + 3 cm (dart) = 72/4 + 3 = 21 cm so that the T1 point lies on the horizontal auxiliary line.
From point T set aside TT2 = 1 cm to the left (for all sizes) and draw the line of the back seam through points T2-B2 in a straight line and then to point C6 as shown diagram.
IMPORTANTLY! The waist dart on the back is introduced into the design when sewing products from fabrics, and only in cases where a tighter fit of the trousers at the waist is required. In all other cases, the fabric excess at the waist is removed into elastic belt.
Waist dart. T1T3 = T2T3. Draw a perpendicular to the waist line from point T3. T3T4 = 14 cm. Draw a dart 2 cm.
- H2H4 = H3H5 = 2 cm.
- K3K5 = 2 cm. Draw the side seam, connecting points T1-B3-K5-H4.
Inside seam. K4K6 = 2 cm. Draw the line of the back through the points C6-K6-H5 as shown on diagram.
Front and back details copy separately on paper. When cutting, add 0,7 cm seam allowances, allowances for the hem 3 cm, allowances along the waistline 3 cm.
Super tip! You can model various styles of trousers, trousers with a low waistline – with pockets in the side seams, with cuffs etc.
More patterns and sewing ideas you can find on the Anastasia Korfiati Sewing School website. Subscribe to our free tutorials and receive new patterns in the first!
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