Drafting a Long-Sleeve Jersey T-Shirt Pattern
The Longsleeve pattern is a basic block for stretch jersey garments. Use this base pattern to sew turtlenecks, T-shirts, and tops. The neckline shape and sleeve length can be modified according to your design.
Measurements required for the Long-Sleeve pattern
How to take measurements – free tutorial
All measurements are given in centimeters. If you work with an inch ruler, use the centimeters-to-inches conversion table Measurements conversion.
- Bust circumference – 92 cm (36 1/4″) (EU size 46, US size 8)
- Back waist length – 42.5 cm (16 3/4″)
- Armhole depth – 20 cm (7 7/8″) (can also be calculated using the formula: Armhole depth = 1/10 × Bust circumference + 10.5 cm (4 1/8″))
- Shoulder length – 12 cm (4 3/4″)
- Neck circumference – 37 cm (14 5/8″)
- Sleeve length – 61 cm (24″)
- Bicep circumference – 29 cm (11 3/8″)
- Wrist circumference – 15.5 cm (6 1/8″)
- Garment length – 64 cm (25 1/4″)
How to Draft the Basic Long-Sleeve Pattern
Prepare a sheet of paper using half of the Bust circumference measurement. Begin drafting from the left side of the sheet.
Back/Front Long-Sleeve Pattern
AD = A1D1 = 64 cm (25 1/4″) (garment length measured from the seventh cervical vertebra to the desired length).
AA1 = DD1 = 1/4 Bust circumference minus 5% (this value is not fixed and may be adjusted depending on the stretch and recovery of the jersey fabric).
Fig. 1. Long-Sleeve pattern
Neckline. AA2 = 2 cm (3/4″). From point A, draw a curve with radius R = 1/6 Neck circumference + 1.5 cm (5/8″) (for all sizes) = 37/6 + 1.5 ≈ 7.5 cm (3″) for the front neckline. Draft the back neckline curve by connecting points A2 and A3.
Armhole line. A2B = 19 cm (7 1/2″) (Armhole depth minus 1 cm (3/8″)).
AB = A1B1. Draw a horizontal line connecting point B to point B1.
Waistline. A2C = 41.5 cm (16 3/8″) (Back waist length minus 1 cm (3/8″)). Draw a horizontal line CC1.
Armhole width. B1B2 = 1/2 (0.33 × Bicep circumference + 0.5 cm (1/4″)) = 1/2 (0.33 × 29 + 0.5) ≈ 5 cm (2″). From point B2, draw a perpendicular up to line AA1.
Back/Front shoulder. From point A3, draw shoulder line A3S = 11 cm (4 3/8″) (Shoulder length minus 1 cm (3/8″)). Set SS1 = 3 cm (1 1/8″).
Armhole shaping. From point B2, draw a 2 cm (3/4″) bisector. From point B2, measure up 6 cm (2 3/8″). Shape the armhole curve connecting points S – 6 – 2 – B1 as shown in Fig. 1.
Side seam. For a straight T-shirt, the side seam may remain vertical.
For a fitted T-shirt: C1C2 = 2–3 cm (3/4″–1 1/8″). Shape the side seam connecting points B1 – C2 – D1.
Trace the Back and Front separately. Add 0.7 cm (1/4″) seam allowances and 2 cm (3/4″) hem allowance. Cut one Back on fold and one Front on fold (Fig. 2).
To contents ▴Close-Fitting Sleeve Pattern
Begin drafting on the right side of the sheet.
OH = 61 cm (24″) (sleeve length).
OO1 = 3/4 Armhole depth minus 2 cm (3/4″) = 3/4 × 20 – 2 = 13 cm (5 1/8″).
O1O2 = 1/2 Bicep circumference + 0.5 cm (1/4″). Connect points O and O2.
Divide segment OO2 into four equal parts – points O3, O4, O5.
O4K = 0.7 cm (1/4″), O5K1 = 1.5 cm (5/8″). Shape the sleeve cap as shown in Fig. 2.
HH1 = 1/2 Wrist circumference + 2 cm (3/4″) ease allowance.
Connect points H1 and O2 with a straight line. Divide segment H1O2 in half and draw a 1 cm (3/8″) perpendicular from the midpoint. Shape the underarm seam curve connecting O1 – 1 – H1.
Trace the sleeve pattern and cut two sleeves. Add 0.7 cm (1/4″) seam allowances and 2 cm (3/4″) hem allowance.
Fig. 2. Long-Sleeve pattern – details
Tools and Materials:
- Cotton jersey – 0.7 m (fabric width 145 cm (57″))
- Cotton tape – 0.7 cm (1/4″) for stabilizing shoulder seams
- Thread – Madeira Aerofil No. 120
- 4-thread overlock machine
- Coverstitch machine
